I Had the Best Night’s Sleep on a Traditional Japanese Futon

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A split-screen header of a traditional Japanese ryokan bedroom with two futon beds laid out on tatami mat flooring.

Having just arrived in Japan for two weeks, many things surprised me. From the culture to the food, every aspect of the country was an absolute delight – and none more so, like the Sleep Planner, than the beds.

Generally, our city hotel bedrooms in Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto come in a variety of shapes and sizes. But when we stayed in two traditional ‘ryokan’ houses, or inns, along the Kumano Kodo hiking trail, the city’s small spaces with rich Western mattresses gave way to large tatami mattresses, sliding shoji doors, and traditional futons, which come out at bedtime.