How To Fix Choppy Layers In Your Hair

• Hairstylist Bill Angst explains what causes choppy layers and how to fix them in this lecture.
• His top recommendations: take the length and grow short, cropped layers.
• Want a consultation about your hair? Read more here.

Question: Hello! My hair is a natural strawberry blonde. I love the color, but it’s getting too long and I don’t know what to do with it. I want to be able to look professional, but also be able to feel sexy and playful.

My hair is usually straight, but when I let it dry, it curls. When I cut my hair, I usually end up with layers, but I want something that looks better on me.

In the past, I have had short layers, but I felt they were too short. I think they have worn out my face. I also hate how I look with short hair, and the bangs didn’t look good either. Having the facial expression I do makes things difficult.

I don’t have much time to do my hair. My hair is very thick, and while I try to keep it thin with layers, it makes styling a nightmare.

I would also like to have a bright red head, but my hair doesn’t like to hold color. I can shake it for the first few days, but it always wears off.

Thank you so much for your advice! – Brenna

A: Brenna, thank you for sending your photos and your request to consult with me. I have to be honest—I like your hair the way it is. Your natural strawberry color is to die for, and so are your long waves.

One thing I would correct is your layering. You are right about the short pieces not working. Your short layer looks like a separate piece from the rest of your hair.

If the layers are too short or cropped, they can look choppy and difficult to style because they don’t blend naturally with every haircut.

You’ll need to let those short pieces grow to blend into all your other layers. For now, I’m going to take a few inches longer to give your cut more balance.

Here are some examples of lengths and layers that might work for you:

As you can see, these layers have a lot of moisture, and will still be long enough to layer.

Parting your hair to one side and tucking it behind one ear will give you a polished, sophisticated and professional look:

I know you’ve said that bangs haven’t worked for you in the past, but if you’re going to try them again, this side-swept style would be perfect:

This can be flattering for your face shape, and it’s easy to blend in other layers as it grows.

In case you want to go shorter, I would suggest this medium angle cut:

Your hairstylist can create hidden inner layers to remove some of the weight. These deep red colors can look good on you too.

In response to a color that doesn’t last long, here’s why. Ammonia-based hair color opens the cuticle of the hair shaft and sets the color. Red is the smallest shade of hair color. After a few washes, the cuticle opens back up in a hot shower—and the color slides out.

The best way to keep hair red is to use an ammonia-free hair color. It leaves the cuticle intact, so the color bleeds when shampooed. This keeps the natural shine too, because it doesn’t restructure the hair.

A sulfate-free shampoo designed for colored hair will also help your color stay put.

I hope this gives you some ideas to show off your enviable hair.

Product Selection

Oribe Shampoo for Beautiful Color

Oribe Color Beautiful Shampoo is a super-gentle, sulfate-free shampoo that preserves color, protects against fading, and strengthens over-processed hair.

Nexxus Color Assure Shampoo

Nexxus Color Assure Shampoo gently cleanses and maintains brightly colored hair for up to 40 washes, all without sulfates or silicones.

Multiple Student Hair Consultations