Cutting Thin Hair With Cowlicks

• Hairstylist Bill Angst shares the best haircuts for thin hair and cowlicks in this tutorial.
• Her top recommendation: a blunt bob with a deep side part.
• Want a consultation about your hair? Read more here.

Q: First of all, thank you very much for this opportunity and your time. I have a few problems with my hair. It’s great, and there isn’t much of it. Also, I have deep and prominent cowlicks on my forehead, where my hair recedes.

Mostly I wore it in a bob with a side swept fringe. However, lately I have been wondering if there is a hairstyle that allows me to work with what I have, instead of trying to fight it.

I’d love a change in both style and color—I’m dreaming of a bright color that would go well with my skin tone. And a style that can be chic and “happy,” since my facial features are not so delicate, due to my bone structure.

I can’t wait to hear other suggestions. Unfortunately I’m on the other side of the world, so I can’t come in person. I see a lot! – Zora

A: Zora, thank you for sending your request for a hair consultation. You seem to know how to work with your hair problems instead of fighting them. With just a few small tweaks, I think you’ll feel a lot better about your hair.

First, your current bob is the perfect style for fine, thin hair.

It’s hard to tell from your photos, but if you have something in the background, I’d recommend growing that out and keeping it close to all one length with sharp, blunt ends.

The rest of the details are yours. Right now, your part appears to be slightly off-center instead of to one side. If your cowlicks allow it, a deep side part will redistribute your hair to give more fullness to one side, and a flattering sweep across your forehead.

Don’t be afraid to try different positions on your part. Flipping your hair, in the opposite direction, is an easy way to create volume and texture.

If you want to sport a fringe, it will need to be combed forward from the crown to add enough weight to make it work.

With cowlicks, your hem always needs to be heavy enough to scale or cover them.

For a complete makeover, going slow will make your hair look bigger and fuller. Here’s a pixie cut that I think would suit you well, with a long fringe and a deep side part:

Here’s a similar cut, but slightly older:

If you would like to keep your hair at its current length or a little longer, I would suggest using hot rollers for styling.

Make sure you use a setting agent, lightly sprayed on each part before rolling it on the hot roller. This will give you more control when you wear your hair either forward or back from your face.

Allow the rollers to cool before taking them out and gently roll out the waves with your fingers.

To show you what hot rollers can achieve, I’ll bore you with some pictures of Inès de la Fressange, a style icon with similar problems with her hair:

As for coloring your hair, I wouldn’t bother because your hair is so beautiful, and your current color suits you so well. Hot rollers will be all your hair can handle with wear and tear.

Any of these styles should be an inspiration to you, as your cowlicks will never go away. Remember to keep the cut simple at any of these lengths, whether you wear it straight or with more body. Too much detail in the cut will not work.

Product Selection

MIX BLOW&SET Lotion

UNITE BLOW&SET Lotion is a styling lotion that adds hold, volume and heat protection to any hairstyle or texture.

Multiple Student Hair Consultations