Short Thick Haircuts

• Hairstylist Bill Angst shares the best haircuts for thick fine hair in this tutorial.
• Her top recommendation: a layered bob that removes bulk and width.
• Want a consultation about your hair? Read more here.

Q: Help! I have really crazy hair. It’s dyed my natural brown (grey coverage), and as you can see, it’s naturally cool and very full. I have a lot and I would say it is roughly average.

What haircut would you suggest that would look more stylish, with less fuss? I am 60 years old and in desperate need of an update.

I only wash twice a week, and I usually blow dry and iron my hair to make it smooth. Also, I don’t use any product except shampoo and cream rinse. My hair tends to behave during the winter months, but Atlanta’s spring, summer and fall are hot and humid! Usually these months, I just pull it up with a ponytail or a big clip to get it off my neck. This gives me a sense of control.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thank you for helping me. — Elaine

A: Elaine, thank you for sending your photos and your request to consult with me. First of all, your hair isn’t “crazy”—it’s just that the weight is always very low, which creates that triangle shape. The right layer will remove the bulk below while keeping the fullness where you want it.

I think this shortcut can dream you:

This will remove all the weight from the lower part of your hair, and prevent it from stretching at the ends.

Here is a looser version of the same idea:

You can also do a slightly longer bob:

The key here is to layer and trim the perimeter so it doesn’t explode. That detail alone makes all the difference in thick, wavy hair.

If you would like to keep your hair close to the length it is now, this is the style I would suggest:

This cut will require some layers under three to four inches, from the end to the top. The layer will deal with the triangle shape you get now, while leaving the top heavy so it doesn’t grow too big in the moisture.

If you decide to keep growing it, here’s what your waves might look like:

This can be achieved with an inner layer to reduce the weight and reduce the edges. Otherwise, the extra height will only exaggerate the width below.

All of these cuts can work well if you let your hair air dry. Straightening and drying the air add to the damage that causes darkening.

I’m curious why you don’t use any product on your hair other than shampoo and cream rinse? Thick, strong hair needs moisture and a little weight to keep it healthy. When it comes to health, there are many clean, natural products available today.

Washing twice a week is best for your hair type. On non-shower days, you can simply wash your hair and apply conditioner, leaving a small amount on your hair rather than washing it completely. Most everyone who has recommended this method to the salon is happy with the results. Alternatively, you can spray your hair with a leave-in conditioner when you get out of the shower.

For styling, I recommend using a styling paste while your hair is still wet. Comb it through with a fine-toothed comb. This will smooth down the open cuticle on the hair shaft. Then, rinse carefully from the ends to the top. After that, don’t touch it again until your hair is completely dry. If you follow this method, even in the humidity, it will look good.

When air-dry, you can add curls or not—your call. If you want it to look more polished, my suggestion is to let it dry naturally and add a smooth curl with a curling iron.

To finish, you can use a few drops of light oil at the end. This will add weight to your hair and make it less frizzy. Just avoid using too much oil, or applying it near the roots, as that will ruin the shape we’re trying to create. Also try to avoid running your fingers through your waves, as this will increase the frizz.

As for your hair color, this light brown shade would be best for you:

There is more depth of color, which makes it look healthier.

Hope this helps, Elaine.

Product Selection

Moroccanoil Molding Cream

Moroccanoil Molding Cream is a cream made with argan oil that hydrates hair while creating a flexible shape and natural-looking texture.

SexyHair Healthy Styling Paste

SexyHair Healthy Styling Paste gives hair a medium hold while controlling frizz and flyaways for up to 72 hours.

Kérastase Glaze Drops

Kérastase Glaze Drops add glossy shine and help prevent frizz for up to four days without weighing hair down.

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